As natural wine goes mainstream, here’s what the haters are missing

Democracy Dies successful Darkness

(Debs Lim/For The Washington Post)

Cizuka Seki ne'er planned connected opening a earthy vino bar.

The co-owner of Izakaya Seki, a vicinity Japanese edifice tucked into Washington’s U Street corridor, had amassed a stash of minimal-intervention bottles that weren’t a acceptable for the dinner menu. In 2023, she started pouring them astatine a play pop-up successful the second-floor eating room, wherever customers seeking earthy vino could gather.